The Church of the Holy Trinity was situated in the center of Shen Vasil, before being destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. In 1967 Albania became the only totally atheist country in the entire communist block; getting caught practicing religion in any form meant a prison sentence or death. During Martha’s first visit in 1992 she was struck by the makeshift altar assembled here, in memory of the church. Later, a more permanent shrine was erected. The village’s monastery was transformed into a stable, its ancient and sacred icons and frescos destroyed by the communists.

The obelisk in the background was erected to honor the martyrs of the Second World War; similar ones can be found all over Albania. Here are inscribed the names of many of my relatives, including an uncle who was killed in 1944. These monuments were used as tools of propaganda by the communists to exploit the feelings of the people.

Makeshift Shrine, on the site of the Church of the Holy Trinity, Shen Vasil, 1992

Makeshift Shrine, on the site of the Church of the Holy Trinity, Shen Vasil, 1992

Permanent Shrine, Shen Vasil, 1996

Permanent Shrine, Shen Vasil, 1996